CES Transmitter and Receiver Replacements

The three wall games produced by Creative Electronics and Software (CES) used actual garage door opener receivers and transmitters.  Earlier games included Stanley remote control devices, while later production used Liftmaster transmitters and receivers.

Actual garage door opener transmitters were cleverly mounted inside a larger remote control box, with the larger video game-style pushbutton installed in the upper half of the box.  Unlike the remote controls for other manufacturer's wall games, this larger button was not a switch.  Rather, it was a spring-operated push button lever, which physically pressed against the operating button on the garage door opener transmitter held within the larger casing.

Although this approach makes it substantially easier to replace lost and damaged components, there is a drawback to this design.  Switching within the garage door receiver is not accomplished through solid state transistors as, for instance, Gremlin wall games are.  Instead, a coil operated mechanical relay is energized when the receiver is activated by the transmitter, and there is a very brief delay as the relay contacts come together and complete the switching circuit.  Those familiar with the instantaneous switching performed in the Gremlin games may find this delay both noticeable and annoying.

Still, the ability to EASILY replace a lost transmitter means that these games should be playable for many years to come.

Obviously, if the receiver is still complete and operational, there is no reason to want to replace it - EXCEPT that if that receiver is the older Stanley unit, you may find that replacement transmitters are not readily available.  Even CES chose to substitute Liftmaster receivers in their later production, and have for several years stated that those parts are no longer available.  CES used Liftmaster 82LM transmitters and 412LM receivers.

Fortunately, eBay is a great source for both new and used Liftmaster transmitters and receivers.  However, care should be taken to choose compatible models.  Not all receivers will work, since there must be an option to keep the relay contact closed until the remote control button is released.  Many receivers only support a momentary relay contact mode.

Transmitters vary as well.  They use different frequencies and encryption codes which may or may not be compatible with your receiver.  Choose a compatible transmitter.  Some Liftmaster transmitters have more than one pushbutton, and I have seen as many as four.  These transmitters, if they use the proper frequency and encryption mode, are still compatible with the receiver, though only one of those buttons is needed.  I have found some Chamberlain transmitters to work as well, specifically model 850CBMK.  Multi-button versions of this model should also work, though I have not tested them personally.

Programming the Liftmaster receiver to accept the remote is simple.  You must remove the metal cover, then press the programming button.  A green LED will light and remain on.  Press the transmitter button and the LED will flash in response.  When you release the transmitter button, the receiver LED will turn off.  Programming is then complete.  If the LED does not respond to your transmitter, the transmitter may be damaged, incompatible, or the 12-volt type 23 battery may be missing, weak, inserted backwards, or not making good contact with the battery terminals.

The type 23 (MN21/A23, 21/23) battery was an unfortunate choice.  This 12-volt battery is half the size of a standard 1.5-volt AAA cell, and is relatively expensive and less readily available than 9-volt and other conventional household batteries.  Game play for Home Run Classic, for example, requires holding the transmitter button down between the pitch and bat swing, which means those expensive batteries will need to be replaced on a regular basis.  Perhaps a modification could be made, installing and wiring an eight-cell AA or AAA battery holder inside the larger outer case.